Runa Ray Autumn/Winter 2016 Collection at NYFW

The backstage door to Runa Ray’s show at Skylight at Clarkson Square was conveniently hidden under an overpass. After walking past it several times in the blistering cold, the entryway seemed to appear out of nowhere. I finally entered the secret passageway and was greeted by warmth and a swarm of hair and makeup professionals. Jorge Luis and his Prive team were wrapping strands of models’ hair in twigs, then flat ironing them to create a crimped look. This was later brushed out and teased, providing exquisite volume. The nest-like look of the hair emphasized the hard structure of the clothing. Inspired by origami, the pieces had, folded details in the fabric, as well as subtle jeweling. Makeup was minimal, with iridescent white eyeliner, and nails had hard black lines to match the look of the clothing.

The space at Skylight at Clarkson Square was transformed by Art Director, Kaylee Boyer, into a whiteout wonderland. The models stood in a line, surrounded by strings of origami flowers and stars suspended from the ceiling. White twigs and branches were bunched in areas on the floor, and flickering candles added to the dreaminess. White lights illuminated some of Runa’s additional pieces of clothing that were hanging from the ceiling, framed by white wooden frames. They looked like they were floating, which added to the magic of the atmosphere.

Runa studied at the National Institute of Fashion Technology in India, then moved to Paris where she obtained a Masters in Garment Engineering. She worked with John Galliano and the House of Dior, learning to blend her expertise in Ready To Wear with the fine art of Haute Couture. Runa then founded MOJO Design Studios in India which later expanded into Singapore and London. She has showcased in Singapore a few times and this was her debut at NYFW. Runa’s designs are known for being luxuriously avant garde and intriguing. I got the chance to ask her a couple of questions backstage before the show.

Interviewer: Why did you choose to do a presentation instead of a runway show this season?

Interviewee: Because if you see the collection, it’s very concept based: it’s origami. It isn’t just origami, but you’re taking the concept and creating something. You have a lot of conceptual pieces which are actually seamless, like origami is. So the best way to actually showcase the art of origami and fashion would be a presentation.

Interviewer: What is the emotion behind the line? Interviewee: It’s a very clean look, and as Kaylee would say, it has a dreamy feel. The clothes are pretty structured so the mood is different from the structure so it’s going to be a good mix.

Interviewer: So it will be contrasting?

Interviewee: Exactly, like you see the hair, it’s very different.

Interviewer: I can’t wait to see it all come together, it was so nice meeting you!

Interviewee: Lovely meeting you!

Follow Runa Ray on Instagram @runaray

**Photos by Kathleen O’Neil